Sewing: Sew Along With Scorpio to Make a Spring Jacket

This is not any old jacket! This is 'I'm here and ready for fun' jacket. Now that the weather is warming up, a lightweight statement jacket is just the thing to add to your wardrobe.

Joining us on the blog is Scorpio, a male sewer from the US who favours sewing bomber jackets and cargo pants, takes us through the steps to create this piece of women's outerwear. His choice of fabric is Lillian Farag's Mega Geo and its got wow!

1. Cut out fabric.

2. Modification - back yoke for stabilisation. Pin front and back yoke together. Sew 5/8inch seam allowance.

3. This is a good time to attach any labels for a cleaner look. Cheat sheet: I use a fabric glue to ensure the label is secure. Topstitch at yoke seams.

4. Attach pockets to front piece.

5. Perform a double fold at the top of pocket pieces. Attach pocket to front piece. Edge stitch close to pocket seams 1/8inch. Note use of fabric to ensure secure hold.

6. Interface front facing.

6. Pin front facing to front piece (right sides together). Using 5/8inch seam allowance.

7. Press seams flat.


8. Turn facing back out to right side up. Use pointer tool to ensure sharp corners.

9. Attach front pieces and front facings to back piece at shoulder. Stitch together using 5/8inch seam allowance. Right sides together.

10. Interface collar stands. For a cleaner look, I used a flat-felled seam.

11. Modification - when preparing to sew collar I press one collar side 1/4inch up. This side used to attach to collar. Pin collar stands. Stitch together other using 5/8inch. Leave bottom 'folded' edges free.

This folded edge (see above) will cover seam line on collar.
12. Again using fabric glue to ensure strong hold. Then edge stitch at seam.

Edge stitch.


Finished collar.

 13. Pin sleeves together. Ride sides facing.


14. Added double-sided binding tape to help hide any fraying and to provide a cleaner finished look overall. Modification - I gave sleeves a more tapered feel by narrowing sleeve width and wrist opening. Minimised fraying via overlock seams.

15. Measured wrist opening in order to make wrist cuffs. 

16. Last step. Add the buttons. That's it! Enjoy.

Nice work Scorp. If Lillian Farag's designs catch your eye, shop her collection here.